![]() This is how I think about it (I was trained and worked as a photographer for 35 years). But I'm not certain it's wrong, either, depending on how the auto painter was using the language, etc. I'm not sure about that, as an explanation. My only other thought now would be to be careful about over-sanding on edges and raised details, because that's always a danger. I've even used some 3000 grit sanding gel, just because I found some on closeout. I use the jeweler's rouge, but there are other types of polishing compounds - undoubtedly some of those will come in liquid or paste form. Also, it's common to use toothpaste as a rubbing compound (Crest?), and I've used that on cars and it does work, too. I cannot guarantee they all work the same, yet I was able to develop a "feel" for it's use, and that final bit of physical resistance seemed to be where the compound did the most work. I've not used every type of rubbing compound out there. Rubbing compound is a must, and you're using that. Probably 1200 to 2000 grit is a good idea.Īnd sanding alone won't do it. I would want to prep a fine finish with over 1000 grit, wet. It's important to progress up through the finer grades of paper. Wet, it can be tricky to not sand through your finish layers, though. The wet technique probably makes it easier lubricates the paper, keeps dust from clogging it, etc. You can use the wet/dry paper dry (why they call it wet/dry!), even though I usually use it wet. ![]() You're likely to scratch the work, if you don't. Note: If you drop the sponge, sandpaper or wiping/drying rag on the floor, START OVER WITH A FRESH SPONGE, SANDPAPER, ETC. Sand only until any uneven surface texture is removed. Wipe the work down often, first with a damp cloth, then a dry one. It's very, very easy to cut right through the finish on a corner. If grain remains in the piece, sand with the grain. ![]() Preparation (sanding, filling, painting), and multiple coats of lacquer help to insure the finish is free of woodgrain texture. Be especially careful during this step, as sanding through the finish is easy with the coarser paper. I cut this small one from a larger sponge, and this is one of several cut. First, the surface of the paint or clearcoat must be sanded to remove any imperfections (deep nicks and scratches must be filled before lacquering, however.) Soak the sandpaper in the soapy water.
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